In Conversation with Christian Kittenberger

On 29 July 2025, I got hold of Christian Kittenberger, one of our family-run vineyards who doesn’t rely on employed workers but keeps it solely in the family. As he always does when you get around to him, even though he’s in the middle of his crucial daily tasks, he (almost) always has a minute to spare for people engaging him. His heartfelt jolly appearance should not, however, be confused with insincerity. Behind the sparkling eyes and big smile is a wholehearted winemaker who puts the depth of his soul into everything he does.

Christian, thank you for taking the time to chat with me during this busy period. Let’s start with what’s happening right now in your vineyards. What are you currently working on?

Right now, at the end of July, we’re focused on regulating the yield in the vineyards. That means we go through each grape variety and vineyard individually and cut off excess grape bunches. The goal is to achieve the ideal fruit-to-vine balance so each vine can focus on ripening fewer, higher-quality grapes. That also helps prevent rot since it improves air circulation and drying. It’s part of our effort to ensure healthy grapes come harvest time. It needs to be done by hand and it takes a lot of time, but it’s very meditative and pleasant when the weather is nice.

Besides that, we’re doing classic vineyard care, tractor work, planting cover crops, and improving soil health with compost. And of course, we’re constantly checking the vines, fixing things after storms, and tidying up where needed.

Are there any particular challenges you’re facing this month?

This year has been odd. It’s July, but it feels like we’ve never reached summer. We’ve had an unusually high amount of rainfall, the most in years. That creates major issues for plant health, especially for grape clusters. Moisture and warmth are the perfect environment for fungal diseases. So we’ve had to be extra diligent with plant protection, making sure treatments are timely and grapes stay well-ventilated. It’s a tough balancing act.

Has climate change changed your timing or approach?

We’re definitely harvesting earlier than we used to. I remember as a kid, we’d still be harvesting into November. Now, we sometimes start in late August. Last year, our first harvest day was 27 August, and that wasn’t even considered early anymore.The vines are budding earlier, sugar levels in the grapes rise faster, and we often deal with either drought or extreme rainfall. Hail has also become more frequent. In the last five or six years, we’ve had hailstorms almost every season. That just didn’t happen before. My dad says we had 20 years without a single hail event, now it’s become part of the job.

When it comes to the harvest, I heard you do everything by hand?

That’s right. Everything that ends up in the bottle is hand-harvested. We rely on a large extended family network, uncles, aunts, cousins, to help out. On a typical harvest day, there are usually 5 to 8 people out in the vineyard. I’m often in the cellar processing the grapes, but I try to jump out and help when I can.

The whole harvest takes about six weeks, with 20 to 24 active days depending on the weather. Some years, like 2021, are perfect, dry, sunny, and easy to plan. Other years are chaotic, with night shifts and rain interruptions. It’s always unpredictable.

How big is your winery, and how did you develop your love for wine?

We’re a small, family-run operation, about nine hectares of vineyard land. I’m the fourth generation working in wine. I basically grew up in the vines and the cellar, my mum, grandfather, and the whole family brought me along. I think I was only a few months old the first time I was out in the vineyard. As a kid, I was plunged into the world of winemaking, following my grandfather and father everywhere. Over time, I learned more and was trusted with more responsibility. Honestly, becoming a winemaker felt natural; everything else just wasn’t as interesting anymore.

Do you remember your first taste of wine?

(Christian laughs) I think I had a tiny sip on my grandfather’s lap before I was even ten, just a watered-down spritzer or something. But the first real glass I remember enjoying? Probably when I was 14 or 15, down in the cellar with my dad, tasting what we had bottled. Sure, it wasn’t technically legal yet, but in a winemaking family, that’s just part of how you grow up.

What are your visions for the future of your winery?

I want to keep it personal. I’m not aiming for massive growth or turning it into a wine “factory.” I want to stay involved, driving the tractor, pruning the vines, doing canopy work. But I could see us expanding to about 15 hectares and maybe developing some event space or visitor programmes here on the farm.The focus will stay on white wine, especially Grüner Veltliner and Riesling with a style that reflects our region honestly. I also wouldn’t mind winning a few awards someday. Not for prestige, but as a little pat on the back for all the hard work.

With that, I thanked him for the 30 minutes he had spared me and let him get back to the vines awaiting his tender care. It will be a long time before the sun sets, and as I enjoy a glass of wine in the comfort of my home, I will appreciate it even more after my chat with a full-blooded winemaker.